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Makeup is Not one Size Fits All: Color Correcting

Color correcting has got to be one of the hardest parts of makeup. Its a crucial step in the fight against hyperpigmentation seeping through foundation but it is often misapplied and misunderstood. Finding the appropriate place in a makeup routine to fit color correcting in is also a challenge for makeup newbies (nubes).

Color correction involves using colored products layered either above or below foundation to even out the skin and assist in concealing discoloration. There are many products on the market including liquid, cream, and wax based correcters.

Color correction chart, courtesy of

When I was learning about color correcting, I was taught to color correct after foundation and then apply a skin tone concealer. This works great if the client has mild discoloration and serves to highlight the face in the meantime. The pro of this technique is that it saves product and because your are knocking two birds with one stone, it also saves time. What I've found, however, is that if the client has a large amount of discoloration, that technique doesn't serve the person well. When I color correct and conceal before foundation, the foundation has way less work to do, and while, yes, I still have to go in with yet more concealer under the eye to highlight, I rather make sure the base is flawless than having to patch up large areas after the foundation is on.

Lessons learned here are: A. Mild discoloration can get color corrected after foundation and B. Severe discoloration should (in my opinion) be color corrected first.

Which product texture is best to use? Liquid, cream, or wax? Well the answer to that questions depends on the clients skin type and it also depends on the products you intend to use. If I am using a liquid foundation that is silicone based then, permitted the liquid color corrector is also predominantly silicone based, you can use any of the choices above. Just be careful with wax products as too much of it can clash with the foundation. Cream color correctors are usually silicones and because wax products already have a similar makeup to silicone, pairing it with a silicone foundation isn't troublesome with proper application. Personally, it is easier for me to use all liquid silicones.

The texture of the product you use also lends itself to coverage with cream and wax color correctors being more full coverage and less likely to sheer out once blended. So again, it is important to assess the clients skin. The darker the discoloration the more concentrated the pigment needs to be to cancel it out. A cream peach corrector is going to cover more than a liquid peach corrector once blended, in other words.

As with all things, makeup is a learning experience and its fun. Enjoy!!

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